Embark on a delicious Turkish meze crawl in Istanbul to savor diverse small plates, from creamy dips and vibrant salads to grilled delights. This guide reveals the best spots and tips for an unforgettable culinary adventure, making it easy for beginners to explore Istanbul’s rich meze culture.
Istanbul is a city that vibrates with flavor, and at its heart lies the joyous tradition of meze. Imagine a table bursting with small, colorful dishes, each a tiny explosion of taste. It’s a feast for the eyes and the palate, perfect for sharing with friends. But where do you even begin with so much deliciousness on offer? Navigating Istanbul’s meze scene might seem a little daunting at first, especially if you’re new to Turkish cuisine. Don’t worry, FoodsGuider is here to help! We’ll walk you through everything you need to know to have an amazing meze experience, uncovering hidden gems and classic favorites.
What is a Turkish Meze Crawl?
A Turkish meze crawl is essentially a culinary adventure where you hop between different restaurants or taverns (called meyhanes) to sample a variety of meze. Instead of ordering a full meal at one place, you explore several, trying a few small dishes at each. It’s a fantastic way to taste a wide array of flavors, textures, and culinary styles that Turkish cuisine has to offer. Think of it like a pub crawl, but for food! This method allows you to experience the diverse food culture of Istanbul, from traditional seafood spots to cozy neighborhood eateries, all in one outing.
Why Go on a Meze Crawl in Istanbul?
Istanbul is a melting pot of cultures, and its food scene is a direct reflection of this rich history. Meze are the perfect vehicle for exploring this diversity. Each small dish tells a story, from the savory depths of ezme (spicy tomato dip) to the refreshing zest of haydari (yogurt with garlic and mint).
- Variety is the Spice of Life: Experience dozens of different flavors and ingredients in a single evening.
- Social Experience: Meze dining is inherently communal, encouraging conversation and shared enjoyment.
- Discover Hidden Gems: Venture beyond tourist traps to find authentic local spots bursting with character.
- Budget-Friendly Exploration: By ordering a few meze at each place, you can try more dishes without the cost of full meals.
- Learn About Turkish Food Culture: Meze are central to Turkish social gatherings and dining traditions.
Planning Your Istanbul Meze Crawl
A little planning goes a long way to ensure your meze crawl is a smashing success. Here’s how to get started:
Choosing Your Neighborhood
Istanbul is vast, but certain neighborhoods are renowned for their culinary offerings, especially for meze. These areas often have a concentration of meyhanes and restaurants, making them ideal for hopping between spots.
- Beyoğlu (including Karaköy and Cihangir): This is perhaps the most popular area, buzzing with energy. You’ll find everything from trendy, modern takes on meze to traditional, old-school taverns. It’s easily accessible and offers a wide range of choices.
- Kadıköy (Asian Side): Known for its vibrant market and local atmosphere, Kadıköy offers a more laid-back but equally delicious meze experience. It’s a favorite among locals and foodies alike.
- Balat & Fener: These historic neighborhoods offer a charming, old-world atmosphere. Dining here feels like stepping back in time, with intimate restaurants serving traditional meze.
- Beşiktaş: This bustling district is another local favorite, especially for its seafood meze. It has a lively, down-to-earth vibe.
Researching Restaurants
While spontaneous exploration is fun, having a few targeted spots in mind can enhance your experience. Look for:
- Highly-rated meyhanes: Check out local food blogs, review sites, and ask for recommendations from locals.
- Places with a good selection: A strong meze menu is key. Look for variety, including hot and cold options.
- Atmosphere: Do you want a lively, bustling place or a quiet, intimate setting?
Timing is Everything
Meze crawls are best enjoyed in the evening. Most meyhanes start serving meze from late afternoon onwards. Aim to start your crawl around 6 PM or 7 PM to have ample time to enjoy multiple locations before they get too crowded or close.
Essential Turkish Meze to Try on Your Crawl
The world of Turkish meze is vast and delicious! To help you navigate, here’s a breakdown of must-try categories and some iconic dishes:
Cold Mezes (Soğuk Mezeler)
These are typically served first, opening up the palate. They are often spooned onto small plates for sharing.
- Ezme: A finely chopped salad of tomatoes, onions, garlic, red pepper flakes, parsley, and olive oil. It’s zesty and has a pleasant kick.
- Haydari: Thick, creamy strained yogurt (similar to Greek yogurt) mixed with garlic and dried mint. Simple but incredibly refreshing.
- Babagannuş: Roasted eggplant mashed with tahini, garlic, lemon juice, and olive oil. Smoky and rich.
- Hummus: While originating from the Middle East, Turkish hummus is often richer and seasoned with cumin and paprika.
- Acılı Ezme: A spicier version of Ezme, often also containing walnuts and pomegranate molasses.
- Patlıcan Salatası: Smoked or grilled eggplant salad, often with garlic, lemon, and olive oil, sometimes with peppers.
- Zeytinyağlı Enginar: Artichoke hearts braised in olive oil with dill, carrots, and peas. A delicate and flavorful vegetarian option.
- Beyaz Peynir: Simple yet delicious Turkish white cheese, often served with melon or tomatoes.
- Kısır: A bulgur salad, typically made with fine bulgur, tomato paste, parsley, mint, and a generous amount of olive oil and pomegranate molasses.
Hot Mezes (Sıcak Mezeler)
These are usually ordered after the cold mezes and are served piping hot from the kitchen.
- Sigara Böreği: Thin pastry rolls filled with cheese (usually feta or beyaz peynir) and herbs, then fried until golden and crispy. So addictive!
- Kalamar Tava/Izgara: Fried or grilled calamari. The fried version is often served with a tartar sauce or lemon.
- Mücver: Zucchini fritters made with grated zucchini, flour, eggs, and herbs like dill and mint, pan-fried until crisp.
- Sucuk: Spicy, dry-cured Turkish sausage, typically pan-fried. It has a distinct, bold flavor.
- Pastırmalı Hummus: Hummus topped with thinly sliced, seasoned cured beef (pastırma). A glorious fusion.
- Karides Güveç: Shrimp baked in a clay pot with tomatoes, peppers, garlic, and cheese.
- Fava: Similar to hummus but made from broad beans (fava beans), blended with dill and olive oil. Often served warm.
Salads & Dips
While some are already mentioned, these deserve a special note for their freshness and variety.
- Çoban Salata: “Shepherd’s Salad” – a finely chopped salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, green peppers, and parsley, dressed with olive oil and lemon juice.
- Gavurdağı Salad: Similar to Çoban Salata but often includes walnuts and pomegranate molasses for a sweet and nutty twist.
- Yoğurtlu Mezes: Many cold mezes feature yogurt, like Haydari (yogurt with garlic/mint) or Cacık (yogurt with cucumber and garlic, similar to a light tzatziki).
A great resource for understanding the breadth of Turkish cuisine is the official Turkey tourism website, which highlights many traditional dishes and ingredients.
The Anatomy of a Meyhane: What to Expect
Meyhanes are the traditional taverns where meze culture truly thrives. They are more than just restaurants; they are social hubs.
The Atmosphere
Expect a lively, often boisterous atmosphere, especially on weekend evenings. This is where friends gather to eat, drink rakı (an anise-flavored spirit), and chat for hours. The decor can range from traditional Ottoman-inspired interiors with dark wood and intricate tilework to simple, unpretentious settings.
The Menu and Ordering
When you arrive at a meyhane, you’ll usually be presented with a menu, but often the best approach is to ask for the meze list or for the waiter to bring out a selection of the day’s offerings. Many places will have a display of the cold mezes from which you can choose, or a photographic menu. Don’t be afraid to ask for recommendations! The waiter is your guide.
Typically, you’ll start with a selection of cold mezes, followed by one or two hot mezes. The pace is leisurely; it’s about enjoying the food and the company.
Rakı and Other Drinks
Rakı is the classic pairing for meze, especially with seafood. It’s traditionally served with a small glass of cold water, which turns the clear spirit milky white (hence its nickname, “lion’s milk” or aslan sütü). You’ll often find a small plate of white cheese, melon, and sometimes tomatoes served alongside rakı to balance its potency.
If rakı isn’t your preference, don’t worry! Most meyhanes also offer a good selection of Turkish wines, beers, and non-alcoholic beverages.
Your Step-by-Step Guide to a Perfect Meze Crawl
Ready to dive in? Here’s a practical approach to planning and executing your meze crawl.
- Start with a Plan (but stay flexible): Decide on a neighborhood or a couple of target restaurants. Have a general idea of the types of mezes you want to try.
- Begin with Cold Mezes: Your first stop should focus on sampling 3-4 cold mezes. Choose a variety – perhaps a dip like Haydari, a salad like Ezme, a vegetable dish, and some cheese or olives.
- Enjoy Your First Drink: Order your preferred beverage. If trying rakı, ask for it to be served with water and ice.
- Move to Hot Mezes: For your second or third stop, focus on hot mezes. Try a couple of classics like Sigara Böreği and Mücver, or perhaps some grilled calamari if you’re near the coast.
- Don’t Over-Order: The key to a crawl is moderation. Aim to try just one or two dishes at each location to leave room for more and avoid getting too full too quickly.
- Pace Yourself: Meze crawls are meant to be enjoyed over several hours. Take your time between stops, perhaps for a short walk to digest and enjoy the city.
- Consider a Mixed Grill or Main (Optional): Some people like to end their crawl with a shared main dish or a small portion of grilled meat or fish at their last stop, but this is entirely optional. The meze themselves are often enough!
- End with Dessert (or Turkish Coffee): If you have space, a small sweet like baklava or künefe can be a delightful finish. Alternatively, a strong Turkish coffee is perfect for an energy boost.
Meze Crawl Etiquette & Tips
To make your meze crawl as smooth and enjoyable as possible, keep these tips in mind:
- Embrace Sharing: Meze is all about communal eating. Order dishes to share with your companions.
- Ask Questions: Don’t hesitate to ask the staff for explanations of dishes or for their recommendations.
- Learn a Few Turkish Phrases: A little Turkish goes a long way! “Merhaba” (Hello), “Teşekkürler” (Thank you), and “Hesap, lütfen” (The bill, please) are always appreciated.
- Be Adventurous: Try something you’ve never had before! You might discover your new favorite dish.
- Hydrate: Especially if drinking rakı, alternate with water to stay hydrated.
- Portion Control: Remember you’re visiting multiple places. Order conservatively at each stop.
- Cash Might Be Useful: While most places accept cards, having some cash on hand for smaller establishments or tips can be helpful.
Sample Meze Crawl Itinerary (Beyoğlu)
Here’s a sample itinerary to get you started in the vibrant Beyoğlu district. This is just a suggestion; feel free to adapt it based on your preferences!
Stop 1: Introducing the Cold Mezes
Location Suggestion: A well-regarded traditional meyhane in Nevizade Street or Asmalımescit.
What to order:
- Haydari
- Acılı Ezme (for a spicy kick)
- Patlıcan Salatası
- A small portion of Beyaz Peynir (white cheese)
Drink: Start with water or a local beer/wine.
Stop 2: Diving into Hot Mezes
Location Suggestion: A lively spot known for its hot appetizers.
What to order:
- Sigara Böreği (a must-try classic!)
- Mücver (zucchini fritters)
- Choose one more: Kalamar Tava (fried calamari) or Karides Güveç (shrimp casserole).
Drink: If you’re feeling adventurous, this is a good time to try your first rakı.
Stop 3: Seafood Specialties or Unique Flavors
Location Suggestion: A restaurant with a good seafood selection or a place known for a specific specialty.
What to order:
- A seafood meze like grilled octopus (Ahtapot Izgara) or a flavorful fish preparation.
- Alternatively, try Fava or Kısır for different textures and flavors.
Drink: Continue with rakı, wine, or choose a refreshing Turkish tea.
Stop 4: A Sweet Ending (Optional)
Location Suggestion: A charming cafe or dessert shop.
What to order:
- A small piece of Baklava or Künefe.
- Or simply a strong Turkish Coffee to finish the evening.
Understanding Meze Costs
The cost of a meze crawl can vary significantly based on the restaurants you choose, the number of dishes ordered, and your drink selection. Generally, Turkish food offers excellent value for money.
Factors Affecting Cost
- Restaurant Type: High-end restaurants in tourist areas will be more expensive than casual local lokantas or meyhanes.
- Dish Chosen: Seafood and meat-based mezes tend to be pricier than vegetable or yogurt-based ones.
- Drinks: Rakı and imported wines can add up quickly, while local beers and house wines are usually more budget-friendly.
- Number of Dishes: The more mezes you order, the higher the bill.
Budgeting for Your Crawl
Here’s a rough estimate:
| Category | Estimated Cost Per Dish (USD) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Cold Mezes | $3 – $7 | Prices vary by ingredient (e.g., octopus is more than hummus). |
| Hot Mezes | $5 – $10 | Fried items or those with seafood/meat are often higher. |
| Salads | $3 – $6 | Simple vegetable salads are generally cheaper. |
| Rakı (per glass/small bottle) | $5 – $15 | Depends on brand and serving size. |
| Local Wine/Beer (glass/bottle) | $4 – $9 | Local options are usually more affordable. |
| Dessert | $3 – $6 | Small portions are typically affordable. |
