Portuguese people say there is a bacalhau recipe for every day of the year. Walk past a Lisbon grocery and you will see why it matters: stiff, white, salted slabs of cod stacked like firewood, sold by the piece and the kilo.
Bacalhau is dried, salted cod, soaked for a day or two and then cooked in dozens of ways; it is Portugal’s national comfort food. In Lisbon the dishes to try are bacalhau à Brás (shredded cod with egg and crisp potato), bacalhau com natas (baked with cream), bacalhau à lagareiro (roasted in olive oil) and pastéis de bacalhau (fritters). In 2026 a main dish costs roughly €12–22 at a tasca and a fritter about €1.50–3. As a fish dish it is usually halal-friendly; check for chouriço or wine in a few recipes.
This guide explains why Portugal eats so much salt cod, the dishes to know, how to order in a Lisbon tasca, prices and a few Portuguese phrases.
Why salt cod?
Cod does not live in Portuguese waters. For centuries Portuguese fishermen sailed to the cold North Atlantic, salted their catch at sea and dried it on the way home, so it kept for months without refrigeration.
Today most bacalhau comes from Norway and Iceland, but the cooking is entirely Portuguese. It is eaten all year, and above all on Christmas Eve, when families serve boiled cod with potatoes, cabbage and eggs.
The dishes to know
| Dish | What it is |
|---|---|
| Bacalhau à Brás | Shredded cod with onion, matchstick fried potatoes and soft-scrambled egg, finished with olives and parsley. A Lisbon classic. |
| Bacalhau com natas | Cod, potatoes and onion baked in a creamy sauce with a golden top. |
| Bacalhau à lagareiro | A thick piece of cod roasted in lots of olive oil and garlic, with small “punched” potatoes. |
| Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá | From Porto: flaked cod baked with potato, onion, boiled egg and olives. |
| Pastéis de bacalhau | Oval fritters of cod, potato, egg and parsley; the classic snack. |
| Bacalhau cozido com todos | Boiled cod with potatoes, cabbage and eggs, the Christmas Eve dish. |
From stiff slab to tender fish
Salt cod must be soaked in cold water for 24 to 48 hours, with the water changed several times, to remove the salt and rehydrate the flesh. Restaurants do it for you.
Well-soaked bacalhau is firm, flaky and gently salty, with a flavour quite different from fresh cod.
Where to eat it in Lisbon
- Tascas – small, family-run eateries with a handwritten daily menu. Look for “prato do dia” (dish of the day); bacalhau appears several times a week.
- Old neighbourhoods – Alfama, Mouraria, Graça and Bairro Alto are full of tascas.
- Cafés and pastry shops – for a quick pastéis de bacalhau at the counter.
- Markets – such as the Mercado da Ribeira, where you can see and buy salt cod.
Opening hours and daily menus change, and many tascas close on Sundays. Go at lunch for the best value.
Halal note: bacalhau is fish, so most dishes are halal-friendly. A few recipes add chouriço (pork sausage) or a splash of wine, and some tascas fry in shared oil. Ask before you order. For halal meat meals, the Martim Moniz and Mouraria area has many South Asian and Middle Eastern halal restaurants. See our halal food travel guide.
How to eat like a Lisboeta
- Lunch is the main meal, from about 12:30pm to 2:30pm.
- The bread and olives put on your table are not free; if you do not want them, send them back.
- Half portions (meia dose) are common and often plenty.
- Coffee after the meal: ask for uma bica (espresso).
Something sweet afterwards
Lisbon’s famous custard tart, the pastel de nata, is sold everywhere. The historic bakery in Belém has made its version since 1837. Pastry recipes vary; ask if you want to check the fat used.
What it costs (2026)
| Item | Typical price |
|---|---|
| Bacalhau main at a tasca | About €12–18 |
| Bacalhau at a mid-range restaurant | About €16–22 |
| Pastéis de bacalhau (each) | About €1.50–3 |
| Lunch menu of the day | About €10–16 |
| Salt cod to cook yourself | Priced per kilo by quality |
Plan your budget with the Portugal food budget calculator and check tipping in Portugal.
Portuguese phrases
| Say | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Bacalhau à Brás, por favor | Bacalhau à Brás, please |
| Meia dose | Half portion |
| Tem porco? | Does it have pork? |
| Tem vinho ou álcool? | Does it have wine or alcohol? |
| É halal? | Is it halal? |
| A conta, por favor | The bill, please |
Frequently asked questions
What is bacalhau?
Dried, salted cod that is soaked before cooking. It is Portugal’s most famous ingredient.
What is the best bacalhau dish in Lisbon?
Bacalhau à Brás is the Lisbon classic; bacalhau com natas and bacalhau à lagareiro are close favourites.
Is bacalhau halal?
It is fish, so usually yes. Check for chouriço, wine or shared frying oil in some dishes.
How much is bacalhau in Lisbon?
About €12–22 for a main dish in 2026, and €1.50–3 for a fritter.
More seafood in the region: cataplana in the Algarve and pulpo a la gallega in Galicia. See all Portugal food guides.
Sources
- Visit Lisboa – official Lisbon tourism site.
- Bacalhau – history and dishes.
